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1.2 服装的造型设计
服装造型设计是服装设计思维和想象力的表现,不仅能够体现出服装的品位,更能突出服装的风格,因此服装的造型设计对服装设计起着重要的作用。如果服装过于重视细节,就会忽略外轮廓设计,会削弱服装的个性。本节介绍服装造型设计的两种造型方式:字母型外轮廓和几何型外轮廓。
字母型外轮廓效果如下所示。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0001.jpg?sign=1738826968-jtFW5oDzcA6a2m7LREnkUi19PUy04Yqn-0-059d7a8a06c4402b7f01d29500388e3e)
A形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0002.jpg?sign=1738826968-6gGEYlyGGgd81wDjHaweQLOWhAIa0OBL-0-21effd9046f685b74e5db28c832dde6a)
O形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0003.jpg?sign=1738826968-OapmngT53kyRRkwyVLwwbaPt1D3KzRCl-0-3b796eb905ced25d57129a402d451f1d)
H形外轮廓
几何型外轮廓效果如下所示。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0004.jpg?sign=1738826968-WUZHyIGr2e5jJD9cuPLUgo66uV8jQUAV-0-afd5c54e5404eaa492482a4face1f51d)
正梯形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0005.jpg?sign=1738826968-3o8R1Gio2kvP4iAcQgcY6ZD186VuxdiA-0-3cdc99124dfc9dddf51153ef49201ded)
方形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0006.jpg?sign=1738826968-1ZvmNpJ0iO2VN8dZhKUlXY8YMPjOcDdo-0-5a494adef91c04d0dcd803d63691b895)
倒梯形外轮廓
1.2.1 字母型外轮廓
轮廓是服装外部造型的剪裁,可以呈现出服装的结构风格及款式,给人以直观的视觉冲击,其重要性不言而喻。字母型外轮廓可分为V形外轮廓、H形外轮廓、A形外轮廓、X形外轮廓、S形外轮廓和O形外轮廓。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0001.jpg?sign=1738826968-LTIpYNwZg3UpP3vJwW3RyoUm1xuHwPeX-0-aa5a280b498499220f1f9dc16b40890f)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0002.jpg?sign=1738826968-fdWzJuom3eihb3dvLu043GBAtQ7f5OOe-0-64f25599183f479dd3d07b66e140ecda)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0003.jpg?sign=1738826968-cavweK0knHonALF5JB2ebDIUIhRDAXSH-0-48932060c4259c08da67a8c25b10531a)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0004.jpg?sign=1738826968-b7gAhx8qG7IMC51UktX1vRcTkuuHyTkN-0-0efb5b902c4deee5608aa5100d7d0884)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0005.jpg?sign=1738826968-a8KQ4Mh1eOo0qSCLcofyN2KZcPvMrd8Z-0-cbf76887b49f44f82b4066b95ba71b45)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0006.jpg?sign=1738826968-PEFufrgXWHavy1GK3xY78iaKMeFFDw1w-0-9883b337e6160a6eedabda97d6dcfa5b)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0007.jpg?sign=1738826968-C0eAQKvzviZ6XQIgvWRn4idxaNEqEUcI-0-7eca5386bb5973d2d1f207fec992857c)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0008.jpg?sign=1738826968-XqReBxcnxsGbiP2TK8ADBiVoCHUw4GRw-0-7ac92b096f3dffa002438e9093f4e95c)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0009.jpg?sign=1738826968-tAJ7S0QK9XPfT8Gb17ty73lgCULZ1VLv-0-95fbd819361adb81c2faac2d15b448d5)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0010.jpg?sign=1738826968-5deV1OZd2f1zU1u1rjxlTkM7uVxc9Ovx-0-234f2244d9ee4fe862ee15031788d83f)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0011.jpg?sign=1738826968-PcPLeED5n8hAVLIpkmQMiK9tPzLiaC6f-0-5d4eb756b15447b3bd36f76d7976685f)
1. V形外轮廓
V形外轮廓肩部较宽,向下则逐渐变窄。V形轮廓外形大胆,个性独特,带有阳刚之气。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0001.jpg?sign=1738826968-nRS8cbwklaSgdjtR4xxN3FKP0PMCaBxF-0-ae8f9020ce322699000197ff08939610)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0002.jpg?sign=1738826968-XvRFNiqUT0QYmjAHtgp9mQoDX94mNLBb-0-aa7db91b212123b69cd385d2272ef10f)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0003.jpg?sign=1738826968-Wq9rsssn3IpsqhiVskCxIy8ixndI8vwn-0-c46ff63f31e9f0a1897525d4c538eb86)
2. H形外轮廓
H形外轮廓是一种平直轮廓,以肩部为受力点,弱化了服装整体的宽度差异,能给人以简约、严谨的感觉。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0004.jpg?sign=1738826968-ouU6GBKELqNZnOXQC0eDnUVLnflqrxJt-0-60d1d1bfba5406062856b04cd1e461c2)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0005.jpg?sign=1738826968-9eFz5z81iyvCeMEZV0CYlgst8aKu9h9c-0-0a63ba80dac67b550c89f823a6192ae1)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0006.jpg?sign=1738826968-8FyNM0NjyZQVXCDDCFAo1KqPtWpSIPqv-0-10dd511ca02bd7b14fd07e448f069ca0)
3. A形外轮廓
A形外轮廓是一种上窄下宽的平直造型。一般这种轮廓的服装肩部较窄或是裸肩,下摆则肥大宽松;裤装则以紧脚踝、肥腿为特征。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0001.jpg?sign=1738826968-MluTubSLWnvmxZInuuHGNKnXEJpb4n6s-0-364bdf5804256884e905832c8600eaad)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0002.jpg?sign=1738826968-xjlZTfbonDvZAJVJoW4UN6lnwswwU8PY-0-8c87818cffe6cff44a806bb1ca14deaa)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0003.jpg?sign=1738826968-vjf85aIgZUyoFPX5LYufCvTFS9e0Y62J-0-5ca367f1eab8ef8723dd8a4c92475afa)
4. X形外轮廓
宽松的肩部、紧致的收腰、自然宽松的下摆是X形外轮廓的特征。该外形的服装设计最能体现出女性的优雅气质,具有优美柔和的女性风格。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0004.jpg?sign=1738826968-cQnagTshRnYbKt0H9zWf3nXG4oZupuCO-0-7a211d8b2da964aad639a364ac35b0a6)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0005.jpg?sign=1738826968-yBjBlpCScRYToAMkbKIq6zSy5mg34KSP-0-c35925c60a455f0c2498ab3f14590fef)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0006.jpg?sign=1738826968-ZYLYhLFk8da9M3IIXwrHlkeSikVqpfry-0-d288208ed67f65e452334b5ee511a0dd)
5. S形外轮廓
S形外轮廓能够将女性身体的曲线勾勒得更加完美,大大提升女性最迷人性感的魅力,又可以体现出女性特有的柔和、典雅感。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0001.jpg?sign=1738826968-zlyNg9GFcniJ0Yrq5qPNdRK2J3V0HCws-0-2ec51d993460fee06303a73911f69221)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0002.jpg?sign=1738826968-r4TClipRi8dBQab7U1g9FdUKQzIiCQWh-0-d863552260bc81964cd534b3a93e37fe)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0003.jpg?sign=1738826968-2rUmu3ROStiRYaFA5G6UJ2GC7mQYCBNW-0-84a33dc19112dd544b3b524389dcb634)
6. O形外轮廓
上下收紧的椭圆形状是O形外轮廓的特征,呈现出丰满的视觉效果,可以巧妙地隐藏身材的缺陷,充满时尚的气息。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0004.jpg?sign=1738826968-MeCLrjxhZnZVpeiB7POyQz0XxBRmaRtv-0-7ce7827bb4a64ec50d390f218c82d0c6)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0005.jpg?sign=1738826968-jzvrV1teNoEoB1dKODquoSYmIjKDRgiZ-0-d38a39f09b53536a37d1dc78c3caf22f)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0006.jpg?sign=1738826968-YkSAhcbEiznKfvVftzvEbwEHBd1zYdp1-0-87dbe2779412267c0aef74fa487eff3f)
1.2.2 几何型外轮廓
服装造型是按照审美要求塑造的立体形象,是由点、线、面、体赋予的“形、色、质”组合的最终形体。服装造型以人体和人体动态为基础,由造型和轮廓两个部分构成,尤其是外轮廓和内部结构结合,呈现出一个整体的视觉形象。下面来欣赏几种几何型外轮廓,分别是方形外轮廓、正梯形外轮廓和倒梯形外轮廓等。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0001.jpg?sign=1738826968-Nw1VVhP5uuX328twDa9k5Jd5EbKAeTgH-0-19233bb2720b2c1a7e65676a69d6c039)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0002.jpg?sign=1738826968-eteEwXmGjjyrLsXZvXGtXTPsKXQmx1UU-0-bcf381291247ad4a426bf9bda221c641)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0003.jpg?sign=1738826968-71bH9018P7bF0kX7j5o62z0MB0yWhFR0-0-6cac2459f7f9ef624bb68c207e35c246)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0004.jpg?sign=1738826968-1Gwtsl0ERfGUKR3MoDDIlUW89nQlloQ8-0-9d55cb4f13e3d10dc6cff3890e395bb7)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0005.jpg?sign=1738826968-nQ3rD3imFJBP5akT8JsNRREibirCPZbx-0-6e522f1af4c8a7865f6fe3e109b8d72c)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0006.jpg?sign=1738826968-QvnhtVQwxDuY5pez23l0Yts3LJ5tyPu6-0-a3efac04615f5d60626f1b4247f4a3a8)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0007.jpg?sign=1738826968-Byw3Bv6pF8SgOelQoX9GKsVa2Mwalkip-0-8f1cf4df34d5bce378da0ddb1cd549cc)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0008.jpg?sign=1738826968-PvOnx61pZKj8FUVPrtnB4tXuZBghchgu-0-55f109fd3040f3657fa05b4d92512acc)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0009.jpg?sign=1738826968-UqE2xABl8yZe98t3lOeG1E5IKaidgVBy-0-687821f82844ba9f5509dbd5723cf9c3)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0010.jpg?sign=1738826968-ZWYxCsqoPcZj6UwkzRGPxVbOn2lB9nI3-0-76323964c68b7f0a172f1132447038e4)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0011.jpg?sign=1738826968-glqqgeU5n1HRkt9g3mj1BAyNLeTTfTEA-0-5e3513944d54c9f9a64c2251659ac6b5)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0012.jpg?sign=1738826968-8hWT4efPwvvBE9G8H8fqlEeWQMd2lHrV-0-9a28a9f0f267d5a3db436459693f135e)
1.方形外轮廓
几何形状是一切事物造型的基础。方形外轮廓以简洁、单纯的创作手法产生极致、富于美感的视觉效果。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0001.jpg?sign=1738826968-5FZHynnyJNQB6HE7lQyN6jgV9NtptzRQ-0-25e5cc4f8df8ae6033ee3dd9ba058567)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0002.jpg?sign=1738826968-LmevTgoTAfCe1jPf6Ml1SYH6mCXs3kJA-0-b1d7ea47e6ed98bfcb891dd6b67a4b66)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0003.jpg?sign=1738826968-BYnNgVyGmyvJJXJYVLK7MpTHTFDUowGF-0-16ccb384f713931088b3fd425e61ccbc)
2.正梯形外轮廓
正梯形外轮廓将肩部修饰得偏窄,下部则有些宽松,是常见的服装款式。它具有鲜明、活泼、雅观的特点。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0004.jpg?sign=1738826968-StyGCRkPBMuL7SeyAoLCjO8L0ZKPxkY3-0-be70bd90d7cdce2bbbbcc12f0b8d7952)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0005.jpg?sign=1738826968-1upRy7uMUDkGMFkZOS2l3c3SRHHBwTve-0-a03941304a592d530d6b80e140f5d55c)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0006.jpg?sign=1738826968-uGP4dZPvzM5iFxaAxlTeV2Bkmv6GhFpz-0-2c4239b55afcede0a691e1d36eab7e97)
3.倒梯形外轮廓
倒梯形外轮廓正好与正梯形外轮廓相反,整体上宽下窄。它具有简洁、庄严、大方的特点。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0007.jpg?sign=1738826968-p7nAa0dNvK8z0U86Wq6Y6u2y8YLNMeS5-0-5cc65f3f081a10a5c580a1621d127df9)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0008.jpg?sign=1738826968-I88CYWHozq88wTQFF7S1a29qg1chGmWB-0-1e9e0ce3ce8ec549e0e7ca3edf4b0395)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0009.jpg?sign=1738826968-3dYAYUEBmtAJiS1Lf8RWhEcHbsNDRowk-0-c31a3aa9d2e0cb774c2960461689b281)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0010.jpg?sign=1738826968-yoHGlEa4twcfKsGgitoZlvXYva6rdD9R-0-4e20150a89d32a474efb722655029848)